Blue Sparrow Lawn & Landscape

Garden Center Closing, Landscape Services Continue

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Blue Sparrow Lawn and Landscape’s Garden Center will be closing for the 2026 season. We will continue landscaping services under the Blue Sparrow Lawn and Landscape name. We look forward to continuing to serve you!

Garden Center Closing, Landscape Services Continue Read More »

Mulch Myths Debunked: What Helps Your Plants and What Hurts Them

Leave a Comment / Education / Blue Sparrow

Mulch is one of the most beneficial tools in your landscaping toolbox—but only when it’s used correctly. While mulching is widely recommended for protecting plants, retaining moisture, and improving soil health, common misconceptions can actually cause more harm than good. Let’s break down some of the most common mulch myths and explain what truly helps

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Myth #1: More Mulch Is Always Better

The Truth: Too much mulch can be harmful.

A thick layer of mulch may seem like extra protection, but piling it too high—especially against tree trunks—can lead to serious issues. Excessive mulch restricts airflow, traps moisture against bark, and creates the perfect environment for pests and disease. Over time, this can cause rot and even girdle the tree.

Best Practice: Apply mulch 2–3 inches deep and always keep it pulled back from the trunk. Think “donut,” not “volcano.”

Myth #2: Mulch Should Touch the Tree Trunk

The Truth: Mulch should never be piled directly against trunks or stems.

When mulch touches the trunk, it holds moisture where bark needs to stay dry. This encourages fungal disease and decay and can weaken the plant over time.

Best Practice: Leave a gap about the width of a tire between the trunk and mulch. This “moat” helps prevent disease and protects the root flare.

Myth #3: Mulching Means You Can Skip Watering

The Truth: Mulch helps retain moisture—but it doesn’t replace watering.

Mulch slows evaporation, but plants still need water, especially during winter dry spells. This is particularly important for evergreens and newly planted trees and shrubs, which are more vulnerable to dehydration during colder months.

Best Practice: Continue watering during extended dry periods, even in winter, when temperatures are above freezing.

Myth #4: Any Organic Material Makes Good Mulch

The Truth: Not all organic materials are created equal.

While shredded leaves can make excellent mulch, large unshredded piles can mat together and prevent water from reaching the soil. Similarly, using unfinished compost or grass clippings incorrectly can introduce problems like odor, mold, or nitrogen imbalance.

Best Practice: Use shredded leaves, aged wood mulch, or composted materials that allow air and water to move freely.

Myth #5: Mulch Is Only for Summer

The Truth: Mulch is just as important—if not more so—in winter.

Winter mulching helps keep soil temperatures stable, prevents freeze-thaw cycles from damaging roots, and keeps plants in dormancy during unpredictable weather. It also protects against erosion and nutrient loss.

Best Practice: Refresh mulch in late fall or early winter to prepare plants for cold conditions.

Myth #6: Mulch Prevents All Weeds Forever

The Truth: Mulch helps suppress weeds, but it’s not permanent.

Over time, mulch breaks down and weeds can still find their way through, especially if the layer becomes thin or compacted.

Best Practice: Maintain proper depth and refresh mulch as needed to keep weed pressure low.

The Bottom Line

Mulch is one of the best investments you can make in your landscape—when applied properly. Avoid common mistakes like piling mulch against trunks or skipping winter watering, and you’ll set your plants up for healthier growth and fewer problems come spring.

If you’re unsure whether your beds are mulched correctly or want help preparing your landscape for winter, reach out to our team. We’re happy to help you protect your investment and keep your property looking its best year-round.

Ask Joy: “When Can I Stop Watering My Plants?”

Leave a Comment / Education / Blue Sparrow

One of the questions I hear more than almost any other is: “Joy, when can I stop watering my plants?” Most people assume that once the temperatures drop and plants go dormant, the watering cans can be packed away until spring. But the truth is — your trees and shrubs still depend on you through

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One of the questions I hear more than almost any other is:

“Joy, when can I stop watering my plants?”

Most people assume that once the temperatures drop and plants go dormant, the watering cans can be packed away until spring. But the truth is — your trees and shrubs still depend on you through winter, especially if they are young.

Let’s break it down.

Dormant Doesn’t Mean Done

Even though your plants may look like they’re taking the winter off, their root systems continue to function beneath the soil. That means they still require moisture, especially during dry spells.

Who Needs Winter Watering?

If you have:

Trees or shrubs less than 3–5 years old,
New plantings from this past year, or
Any plants installed in drought conditions,

…they still need supplemental watering during winter months.

These younger plants haven’t developed deep, established root systems yet, so they rely heavily on regular moisture to survive their first few winters.

How Often Should You Water in Winter?

A good rule of thumb:

Provide water every 2–4 weeks during winter when the weather is dry and there is no snow or rain.

And, just like in summer, the key is deep watering. A slow trickle from a hose at the base of each plant is ideal.

Water During the Warmest Part of the Day

Choose a day when temperatures rise above 40 degrees so the water can soak into the soil before freezing.

Why Winter Watering Matters

Young plants can become stressed or even die over winter if they don’t receive enough moisture. Winter drought is one of the most common causes of plant loss — but also one of the easiest to prevent.

Consistent watering helps your trees and shrubs:

Maintain root health
Better withstand freezing temperatures
Prepare for vigorous spring growth

It’s a small task now that makes a huge difference later.

What About Established Plants?

Once your trees and shrubs reach about 5 years old, they typically have deep, well-spread root systems and can handle winter dry spells more effectively.

However — during unusually warm, windy, or dry winters, even mature plants appreciate the occasional drink.

Final Thoughts from Joy

Winter watering doesn’t have to be complicated. Think of it as helping your plants through their childhood years — once they mature, they’re far more self-sufficient.

If you’re unsure whether your plants are established enough to skip winter watering, I’m always happy to help. Just reach out!

Stay warm, stay hydrated — and keep those plants hydrated too!

Dormant Seeding Your Lawn: Why Winter Is the Perfect Time to Prepare for a Healthier Spring

Leave a Comment / Tips and Tricks / Blue Sparrow

When the temperatures drop and lawns turn brown, most people assume lawn care is done for the year. But winter offers one of the best opportunities to improve your lawn for the upcoming growing season. This technique — known as dormant seeding — sets the stage for thick, healthy grass as soon as spring arrives.

Dormant Seeding Your Lawn: Why Winter Is the Perfect Time to Prepare for a Healthier Spring Read More »

When the temperatures drop and lawns turn brown, most people assume lawn care is done for the year. But winter offers one of the best opportunities to improve your lawn for the upcoming growing season. This technique — known as dormant seeding — sets the stage for thick, healthy grass as soon as spring arrives.

If your lawn struggled this year due to heat, foot traffic, pests, or thinning, dormant seeding may be exactly what it needs.

What Is Dormant Seeding?

Dormant seeding is the process of spreading grass seed when soil temperatures are too cold for germination. The seed remains dormant through winter and naturally germinates once soil warms in early spring.

This gives your lawn a jump-start on growth before weeds wake up — leading to a denser, healthier yard.

When Should You Dormant Seed?

Timing is everything.

For dormant seeding to work properly, you want the soil to be consistently below 40°F, so the seed won’t germinate too early.

Ideal Dormant Seeding Window

Mid-November through early March
The key is ensuring there won’t be a warm streak that could trigger seed germination before the next freeze.

This winter window varies slightly by climate, but the rule is simple:
Cold soil now = green grass later.

How to Dormant Seed Your Lawn

1. Prepare the Area

Good seed-to-soil contact is crucial. Start by prepping the lawn:

Mow to 1.5 inches
Rake thoroughly to remove:
- Leaves
- Thatch
- Debris
Expose as much bare soil as possible

This step ensures that when the seed settles — through snowfall, wind, or freeze-thaw cycles — it has a place to grow.

2. Spread the Seed Evenly

Using a broadcast or drop spreader, distribute the seed following proper application rates.

Fescue blend: Approximately 5 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Adjust quantities based on your grass type and the size of your lawn.

Tip: Spread seed in two passes (north–south and east–west) for better coverage.

3. Let Winter Do the Rest

Unlike spring seeding, dormant seeding requires no immediate watering.

What happens next:

Snowfall helps press seeds into the soil
Freeze-thaw cycles naturally “plant” the seed
Seeds stay dormant until soil warms in early spring

In spring, once you see germination, you can begin:

Light watering
Your fertilization schedule
Normal lawn care practices

No fertilizer is needed until the new grass has sprouted and established.

Why Choose Dormant Seeding?

Dormant seeding offers several advantages:

Earlier spring germination than traditional spring seeding
Stronger roots because seedlings are established before heat arrives
Thicker turf that naturally chokes out weeds
Ideal moisture conditions — winter and early spring provide more natural precipitation

Plus, it’s easier now since yard activity is low and weeds aren’t competing.

Need Help Improving Your Lawn This Spring?

Dormant seeding is one of the best ways to set your lawn up for success — but timing and preparation matter.

If you’d like help assessing your lawn, choosing the right seed, or scheduling spring follow-up care, we’re here to help.

Reach out to the experts at Blue Sparrow Lawn & Landscape and get your lawn on track for a greener, healthier spring!

Bagworms: What They Are and Why October is the Time To Act

Leave a Comment / Education / Blue Sparrow

If you’ve noticed small, pinecone-like bags hanging from your trees and shrubs, you might be dealing with bagworms — a common pest that can cause significant damage to evergreens and other plants across Missouri. Understanding their life cycle and how to manage them can help protect your landscape from future infestations. What Are Bagworms? Bagworms

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If you’ve noticed small, pinecone-like bags hanging from your trees and shrubs, you might be dealing with bagworms — a common pest that can cause significant damage to evergreens and other plants across Missouri. Understanding their life cycle and how to manage them can help protect your landscape from future infestations.

What Are Bagworms?

Bagworms are the larvae of a moth species that construct distinctive silk bags covered with bits of leaves, twigs, and needles. These camouflaged homes hang from branches and serve as both protection and shelter. While they might look harmless, each bag can contain hundreds of eggs that will hatch the following spring, restarting the cycle.

Why October Is the Right Time to Act

By October, bagworm larvae have stopped feeding and sealed themselves into their bags to pupate and lay eggs. This makes fall the best time to remove and destroy the bags before the next generation hatches.

Overwintering:
The eggs inside these bags will survive through winter and hatch in late May or early June. Removing the bags now prevents hundreds of new larvae from emerging in the spring.

Prevention:
Early removal breaks the life cycle — it’s a simple, eco-friendly step that dramatically reduces infestations for the coming year.

How to Identify and Remove Bagworms

Step 1: Inspect Your Plants
Check trees and shrubs for hanging, pinecone-like bags. They are often about 1–2 inches long and blend in with foliage.

Step 2: Remove the Bags
Use scissors or pruning shears to clip the bags off branches. For smaller infestations, manual removal is often all you need.

Step 3: Destroy the Bags
Don’t leave them on the ground! Place the collected bags into a sealable plastic bag filled with soapy water to drown the eggs. Alternatively, tightly seal and dispose of them in the trash.

Step 4: Stay Vigilant
Inspect your plants again in late spring and early summer to catch any new infestations before they spread.

Life Cycle Summary

Late May–June: Eggs hatch, and larvae begin feeding on leaves and needles.
Summer: Larvae continue feeding, causing significant defoliation.
Early Fall: Larvae stop feeding, pupate, and lay eggs within their bags.
Winter: Eggs overwinter inside the bags until they hatch the following spring.

Pest Management Tips

Check plants regularly to detect infestations early.
Remove bags by hand in fall or winter before eggs hatch.
Use pesticides responsibly — insecticides are only effective in early summer when larvae are actively feeding.
Consult professionals if an infestation becomes severe. Blue Sparrow can assess your landscape and apply targeted treatments to keep your trees and shrubs healthy.

Take Action Now

Bagworms may be small, but the damage they cause can be significant if left untreated. October is the best time to stop their life cycle and protect your landscape for the next growing season.

If you’ve found bagworms on your property, contact Blue Sparrow Lawn & Landscape — we’ll help you manage the problem safely and effectively before it spreads.

Showcase – Windows Lofts Apartments – Kansas City

Leave a Comment / Showcase / Blue Sparrow

In 2023, Blue Sparrow Lawn & Landscape was approached by Windows Lofts Apartments in downtown Kansas City to reimagine their outdated landscaping. After a few planning meetings, the project was temporarily put on hold due to budget constraints. But in early 2025, we were able to move forward and bring a fresh, modern look to

Showcase – Windows Lofts Apartments – Kansas City Read More »

In 2023, Blue Sparrow Lawn & Landscape was approached by Windows Lofts Apartments in downtown Kansas City to reimagine their outdated landscaping. After a few planning meetings, the project was temporarily put on hold due to budget constraints. But in early 2025, we were able to move forward and bring a fresh, modern look to the property’s front landscaping.

A Unique Challenge: The Pet Station

One of the most interesting aspects of this project was redesigning the apartment’s pet station. The original area sat along a curb that often flooded during heavy rain, leaving the artificial turf soggy and unusable.

Our team partnered with Grass Worx to install NATURA hybrid turf, a system that allows natural grass to grow through it while still handling heavy pet traffic. This innovative solution keeps the space looking natural, lets dogs smell the dirt beneath the surface, and eliminates the saturated turf problem. We seeded the area with a fescue blend, creating a low-maintenance, pet-friendly green space that functions just like a normal yard.

Landscape Transformation

In addition to the pet station, we:

Removed outdated rock and dying shrubs from the front beds
Trimmed and shaped existing trees
Installed new shrubs where needed
Added over 45 tons of decorative rock to refresh curb appeal

The result was a complete transformation that not only improved the visual appeal of the property but also contributed to resident satisfaction and retention.

Results & Feedback

The project took just seven days to complete, and the feedback from both management and residents has been phenomenal. The updated landscaping has given Windows Lofts a welcoming, polished curb appeal that reflects the energy of downtown Kansas City living.

What’s Taking Over Your Yard? The Problem with Invasive Bush Honeysuckle

Leave a Comment / Education / Blue Sparrow

If you’ve noticed fast-growing shrubs with bright red berries and fragrant white or yellow flowers crowding your yard or nearby woods, chances are you’ve encountered invasive bush honeysuckle. While it may look pretty at first glance, this plant is a major threat to Missouri’s landscapes — and now is the time to take action. Why

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If you’ve noticed fast-growing shrubs with bright red berries and fragrant white or yellow flowers crowding your yard or nearby woods, chances are you’ve encountered invasive bush honeysuckle. While it may look pretty at first glance, this plant is a major threat to Missouri’s landscapes — and now is the time to take action.

Why Bush Honeysuckle is So Invasive

Bush honeysuckle species like Amur honeysuckle and Morrow honeysuckle spread aggressively, quickly outcompeting native plants for sunlight, water, and nutrients. Their dense thickets shade out wildflowers, young trees, and shrubs, reducing biodiversity and leaving little room for beneficial native plants to thrive.

The University of Missouri Extension warns that invasive honeysuckles can also contribute to increased tick populations. Their dense growth provides ideal habitat for small mammals like mice, which are carriers for ticks. More honeysuckle often means more ticks — and greater risk to people and pets.

The Right Time for Removal is Now

Late summer into fall is one of the best times to remove bush honeysuckle. The shrubs stay green longer than most native plants, making them easier to identify. Treating them now ensures they don’t get a head start in spring, breaking the cycle of regrowth.

At Blue Sparrow, we provide professional brush clearing and invasive species management. Simply pulling honeysuckle won’t work, and common herbicides like Roundup won’t kill it. Proper management requires selective herbicides and careful removal techniques to stop honeysuckle at the root.

Alternatives to Plant Instead

If you love honeysuckle but want to avoid the invasive varieties, MU Extension suggests planting fragrant honeysuckle or goldflame honeysuckle, which are non-invasive and beautiful options for Missouri landscapes.

Take Back Your Property

Don’t let invasive bush honeysuckle take over your yard or commercial property. Proactive management not only restores native beauty but also creates a healthier environment for people and wildlife.

Call Blue Sparrow today to schedule honeysuckle removal and protect your property’s natural balance.

What Is This Weird Grass in My Yard? Understanding & Eliminating Nutsedge

Education / Blue Sparrow

If you’ve noticed wiry, bright green shoots popping up in your lawn that seem to grow faster than everything else — you might be dealing with nutsedge. Sometimes mistaken for regular grass or weeds, nutsedge is actually a sedge, meaning it’s more closely related to lilies than turfgrass. And while it might look harmless, it

What Is This Weird Grass in My Yard? Understanding & Eliminating Nutsedge Read More »

If you’ve noticed wiry, bright green shoots popping up in your lawn that seem to grow faster than everything else — you might be dealing with nutsedge. Sometimes mistaken for regular grass or weeds, nutsedge is actually a sedge, meaning it’s more closely related to lilies than turfgrass. And while it might look harmless, it can quickly take over your yard if not handled properly.

What Makes Nutsedge Different?

Unlike normal grass, nutsedge has:

Triangular stems (roll one between your fingers — you’ll feel the edges)
Glossy, light green leaves that stand upright
Rapid growth, often towering above your lawn within days
Underground nutlets — tiny tubers that store energy and allow it to regrow even after being pulled

These underground tubers are the main reason nutsedge is so stubborn. If you pull it, you’re likely leaving most of the root system — and the plant will bounce right back, sometimes stronger than before.

Why Pulling or Using Roundup Won’t Work

Many homeowners try the usual weed-fighting tricks — pulling weeds by hand or using glyphosate (Roundup) — but nutsedge doesn’t play by those rules.

Pulling leaves the nutlets behind, which quickly sprout new growth.
Roundup is non-selective and will kill your grass, but still may not fully eradicate nutsedge, especially if it doesn’t reach the tubers.

The result? You lose healthy grass and the nutsedge keeps coming back.

The Right Way to Get Rid of Nutsedge

Nutsedge requires a selective herbicide — one designed to target sedges without harming your turfgrass. These treatments move through the plant and down into the nutlets, breaking the cycle of regrowth. The key is persistence: multiple treatments spaced appropriately through the growing season will ensure the entire plant is taken out.

Preventing Future Outbreaks

To keep nutsedge from making another unwelcome appearance:

Avoid overwatering — it thrives in moist, poorly drained soil.
Mow regularly to keep it from seeding.
Maintain a healthy, dense lawn to crowd out invaders.

Our Approach to Nutsedge Control

We use professional-grade selective herbicides that effectively eliminate nutsedge while protecting your lawn. We also schedule treatments strategically to make sure we stop both the visible plant and the underground nutlets.

Final Tip: Catch It Early

The earlier you identify nutsedge, the easier it is to control. Regular lawn checks can save you time, money, and frustration. If you suspect you’ve got nutsedge in your yard — don’t wait for it to spread.

Contact us today for an expert inspection and a treatment plan that works. Together, we’ll get your lawn back to looking its best — no weird grass allowed.

Bright Ideas: How Lighting Enhancements Can Transform Your Outdoor Space

Tips and Tricks / Blue Sparrow

Outdoor lighting isn’t just about visibility—it’s about value, safety, ambiance, and making a lasting impression. Whether you’re enhancing your home or commercial property, strategically placed lighting can elevate your space from average to unforgettable. Boost Curb Appeal and Property Value According to landscaping and real estate studies, landscape enhancements alone can increase a property’s value

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Boost Curb Appeal and Property Value

According to landscaping and real estate studies, landscape enhancements alone can increase a property’s value by 10–20%. When you incorporate outdoor lighting into that design—especially to highlight trees, pathways, and architectural details—you can increase perceived value by another 1–3%.

That means thoughtful landscaping with lighting could boost your property’s total value by 15–23%. Not a bad return for something that also makes your space look incredible every evening.

Why Lighting Matters

Lighting enhancements are one of the most impactful (and often overlooked) upgrades you can make. Here’s why:

First Impressions Sell
Buyers often decide how they feel about a property within seconds. A beautifully lit exterior creates emotional impact from the curb.
Perceived Care
Professionally designed outdoor lighting suggests that the homeowner has paid attention to the rest of the property as well—inside and out.
Extended Living Space
Lighting allows you to enjoy patios, gardens, and outdoor entertainment areas well into the evening. It also makes spaces feel larger and more welcoming.
Eco-Friendly Appeal
Today’s smart lighting solutions use LED fixtures and energy-efficient designs, appealing to environmentally conscious buyers and reducing monthly energy bills.

Make Your Home Shine—And Save While You Do It

From soft pathway lighting and dramatic uplighting on trees, to ambient garden lights and architectural spotlights, our team can help you design a plan that suits your space, goals, and budget.

Summer Sale: 20% Off Lighting Enhancements & Fire Pit Installations
Through August, we’re offering 20% off all lighting enhancements and fire pit installations. It’s the perfect time to plan your upgrade and take advantage of summer evenings outdoors—while boosting your property’s value in the process.

Ready to get started? Contact us today to schedule your consultation and claim your summer discount!

Understanding Sawflies: How to Spot, Manage, and Prevent Damage

Tips and Tricks / Blue Sparrow

When it comes to garden pests, sawflies often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. These small but destructive insects can quickly defoliate trees and shrubs if not managed early. Knowing what to look for, how to differentiate them, and what to do next can help keep your landscape healthy and thriving. What Are Sawflies? Despite their

Understanding Sawflies: How to Spot, Manage, and Prevent Damage Read More »

When it comes to garden pests, sawflies often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. These small but destructive insects can quickly defoliate trees and shrubs if not managed early. Knowing what to look for, how to differentiate them, and what to do next can help keep your landscape healthy and thriving.

What Are Sawflies?

Despite their name, sawflies are not true flies. They are actually members of the wasp family (Hymenoptera) and get their name from the saw-like structure females use to lay eggs into plant tissue.

To make things a little more confusing, two very different types of insects are often lumped under the term “sawfly”—leaf-feeding sawflies and wood-boring sawflies. Both can cause damage, but their behaviors, appearance, and management techniques differ.

1. Leaf-Feeding Sawflies

These are the most common in home landscapes. The larvae resemble caterpillars but are actually wasp larvae, not butterflies or moths.

Life Cycle:

Adult sawflies emerge in spring and early summer to lay eggs on leaves.
Eggs hatch into larvae that feed voraciously on foliage for several weeks.
Once mature, the larvae drop to the soil to pupate, emerging as adults later in the season or the following spring.

Symptoms:

Skeletonized or notched leaves
Large groups of larvae feeding in clusters

Rapid defoliation, especially on pines, roses, or fruit trees

2. Wood-Boring Sawflies

These sawflies burrow into tree trunks and branches, especially in stressed or recently transplanted trees.

Life Cycle:

Adults lay eggs in bark crevices or directly into stems
Larvae bore into the wood and feed internally for months
Damage often becomes visible only after significant internal tunneling

Symptoms:

Wilting or dieback of branches
Small exit holes in bark
Frass (sawdust-like debris) around base or on bark

Diagnosing a Sawfly Problem

To confirm a sawfly issue:

Inspect leaves and stems closely, especially in spring and early summer
Look for small, soft-bodied larvae feeding in groups
Count the number of prolegs (sawfly larvae typically have 6 or more, while caterpillars have 5 or fewer)
For wood-boring types, monitor newly planted or stressed trees for wilt or boreholes

Early detection is key to effective management.

Pest Management Strategies

Here are some best practices for controlling sawflies in your garden or landscape:

Regular Monitoring
Check plants weekly during active seasons (spring and early summer) for early signs of damage or larvae.
Hand Removal
In small infestations, simply removing larvae by hand or pruning affected branches can prevent spread.
Use Insecticides Responsibly
If treatment is needed, use insecticides labeled for sawflies, not caterpillars. Products with spinosad or insecticidal soap can be effective for young larvae. Always read labels and apply only as directed.

Avoid Overuse
Don’t spray preventively. Insecticides should be used only when necessary and after confirming the presence of sawflies.

Need Help Identifying or Managing Sawflies?

If you suspect a sawfly infestation or want a second opinion before applying treatments, we’re here to help. Contact our team for a professional evaluation and responsible, effective pest management recommendations.

Let’s protect your landscape the smart way—through informed action and early intervention.